Orphans and Trains

Wednesday, April 23, 2025

For some reason, I didn't set an alarm last night, so when I woke up it was 10:30am.  Guess I needed to sleep

I got myself out of bed and head out the door.  I wanted to get a ticket for Oliver, so I headed to the theatre.  I got there and was told the box office didn't open until noon, so I ended up finding a coffee place, getting some coffee and buying a ticket online.  I then headed back to the direction of the theatre and began to write yesterdays blog.  

Oliver - definitely a British Classic, remains one of my favorite shows.  I've worked on several productions.  It's a hard show, believe it or not.  And while the title suggests that it's a lovely show for kids, it really is not.  I often wonder how the kids in the audience reacted to the adult themes in this show.  Particularly a murder. I'll leave that there in case any reader doesn't know the story, wouldn't want to give it away.  This particular production started life in 1994 at the London Palladium at the time where the English Mega-Musical was heading for a downturn.  Big sets, costumes, overly orchestrated score (still amazing) etc.  It was a big success in 1994.  However, it never came to the the US.  It may have played in Canada if my memory serves me correctly.  A production inspired by this production toured the US in 2023 - however, Broadway has never seen it.  I guess there are reasons that I won't bore anyone with - especially me -  but it's a pity that it hasn't graced the BROAD-way.  The Palladium production was revived in 2009 and now again in 2024.  There's a reason why it keeps coming back.... it's SO good.  For me, I think the hardest part of the show is the last 10 minutes.  Like any musical of its time, the plot is wrapped up in the last moments of the show, and in this case, there are many chases, 2 murders, and plot turns.  All underscored, which can be a musical directors nightmare.  However, it was very well done and executed just how it should be.  The show moves swiftly, it's sung well, acted well, etc.  This was a good choice.  I've always been curious about this production, it was worth the wait.

It's also quite long - as Oliver is and when it was over I looked at my watch and realized I had to hightail it out of that area to get to my next show.  Starlight Express,  which was in Wembley Park.  So I boarded the train - appropriately - and headed out.  Ugh... commute time.  That's all I'll say about THAT.  I got there in plenty of time for some dinner and much needed breathing time.

Starlight Express - what can I say?  When I heard the CD in 1991, I was like - "What the heck is this".  But it was Andrew Lloyd Webber.  And what I didn't know at the time as I was just getting into musical theatre and there wasn't the internet yet, was that I was totally  missing out on something special.  I was totally into the music and I remember in 1993, they re-vamped the show and some new music was released which was fantastic.  (still no internet)  I finally saw a production in 2004 - it was a touring production that played in San Jose.  I remember that we had 3D glasses to watch the race sequences on a screen.  You can imagine what a downer that was.  But the music was great, I can't remember the staging and looking back, I can't imagine how the show was staged for a tour.  When the London production opened in 1984 or so, there was a sit-down production that opened in Bochum, Germany - where a theatre was built especially for the production.  The design was much like the original London.  In 2014, on my first solo trip to Europe, I made a stop in Bochum just to see Starlight Express - I've been back 2 more times. Both times with my longtime friend, John, who's always had a love for the show (having seen the original in London) and has passed that love on to me for sure.  It didn't matter if the show was sung in German, it was still Starlight Express and if you didn't know the plot by now....  The German production has been tweeked several times, thus making it re-watchable and fresh.  That's brilliant.  

When it was announced that Starlight Express was being revived in London, I had to see it.  That is pretty much why I'm here.  It did not disappoint.  The show was fresher than ever.  New music, new staging, new characters, some new story aspects - but it's still Starlight Express.  There are so many great things to say about this production.  It was slick, colorful, well staged, skated, sung, and so much energy.  

I actually recorded the mega-mix as we were allowed to, but it's too big to post here.  However, here is a youtube video of the same thing

I wish I could see it again as I don't know what the fate of this production is.  I hear it has to close at some point because they want to knock down the theatre its in, but I don't know.  I may have to come back and see it when we find out.

What a day!

Oh - I plan to do a proper blog about the shows themselves at some point.  

Mattei 

A Walk in the Park and a few shows

Tuesday, April 22, 2025

Up early today.  Slept most of the night, but woke up at 5:30am.  I’ll take it!  Today began with a fairly odd bucket-list item.  I took the train to Holland Park, a few train stops away letting off at Kingsington High Street.  My reason was two-fold.  One was to meet up with Val as she was going for a run, the other was just to walk in Holland Park while listening to one of my very favorite Michael Ball songs that he recorded way back in the 90’s (before he was THE Michael Ball) - Holland Park.  Here’s the youtube link for the song.  

Holland Park

I listened to it on repeat for a while. I met with a lot of doggies, even a few schnauzers, but no bulldogs in pants. Some beautiful flowers, a Japanese Garden and miles of paths.  Odd Bucket-list item accomplished.  Of course, I’d go back.  I met up with Val and we walked and walked - and talked.  We ended up walking in Holland Park, through High Kensington and into Kensington/Hyde Park.  It’s hard to tell where the line is that separates Kensington and Hyde Parks.  We saw lots of swans, and more dogs - many dogs.  Dogs are always welcomed.  We commented to each other on just how well dogs are behaved here.  My 2 would not last a minute with all the other dogs around.  But I guess they would get used to it if they had to.  We had walked through the park, through the Italian Gardens and ended up on the other end of Kensington park about 3 blocks from my hotel.  We said our goodbyes for now and went our separate ways.  That was a great walk.  A great way to start the first “real” day in London.

Pictures of the walk can be found HERE

I got back to the hotel and showered and got ready for the day.  I headed out to the tube and towards Oxford Circus.  I had some looking around to do for a dinner spot on Thursday - failed mission - and I had some idea of what I wanted to do with my day.

On the way to wherever I was going - still didn't know where- I stumbled about Soho Square.  Particularly look for people selling flowers and dropping "H's" everywhere.  I asked a random gentleman "You sir, did you go to school" and he promptly replied "What do you tike me for, a fool" - I walked away sighing and thinking no one taught him "take" instead of "tike".  So, I shoved on.

I ended up near the Phantom theatre and stopped a bit because I needed some coffee so I found a Cafe Nero - got some coffee and took the laptop out to check out some matinee choices for Wednesday and Thursday if I decided to do that.  As I was poking around, I saw that The Curious Case of Benjamin Button had a Tuesday 1:30pm matinee.  I had heard that it was a great show, some people coming here just to see it, so I got a ticket and was on my way.  I really hate google/apple maps for walking.  My favorite phrase is “continue on the path” and I’m like “WHAT PATH”  - that happened a LOT in Holland Park this morning as I was trying to figure out how to get to a certain spot to meet Val.  Literally walked in circles - but I digress…..

I got to the theatre and found my seat, which was sort of a box at the back of the Stalls (Orchestra section in the USA)   There were 4 seats in this “box” and eventually was surround be 3 wonderful English ladies.  At intermission, we talked about the show, the lady on my right said “to be honest, I’m having a hard time staying awake” I told her that I totally understood what she was talking about.  I was so excited to see a show that afternoon, that after I purchased a ticket, I suddenly realized how not really awake I really was.  Still adjusting to London time AND a long walk, I was still in sort of a “chill” mode and could probably sleep as soon as you put me in front of a TV or even live theatre.  So, I was hoping for the best, and I think I did OK.  Can’t say I didn’t zone a few times, but I’m pretty sure I didn’t miss much.   

After the show, I stopped in a Pret for some water and a snack and then head out to meet Val, Joe and Autumn for dinner before we were all seeing The Phantom of the Opera.  Dinner was fun.  It was at a restaurant called “Americana” which was “American” food.  Food was good, and the conversation was sparkling,   I was the only one at the table that had seen The Phantom of the Opera in ANY form.  Before tonight, Joe’s musical tally was 2 - Hamilton and Back to the Future - the Musical.  OK - I guess if you have only seen 2 in your life until now, those we two good ones to see.  Our restaurant was across the street from His Majesty’s Theatre, so after we finished dinner, we headed over to the theatre.  Our seats were in the second balcony in the second row.  London theatre are small, so even from the second balcony, the views were great and for t a show like Phantom, sometimes its better to be able to see everything.  It was worth it when the chandelier rose pretty much in our faces, and the view at the end of the first act was fantastic.  Joe had asked “why is this theatre called “His Majesty’s Theatre” and the guy in front of us said (without missing a beat) “Because she died”.  I explained that the name of the theatre used to be “Her Majesty’s Theatre” but when the queen died, they changed it.  I felt that my inner theatre-snob was showing. Talk about inner-theatre snob, at the intermission, Val asked about the accents and if they were always the same.  I explained that the show takes place in Paris - and all 3 were like “What?.  Oy….   I then went on about the novel by Gaston Leroux and how while the dropping of the chandelier is mentioned in the novel - which was semi-based on real life situations - it was actually a stage weight that fell from the ceiling.  And yes, the Phantom was a real person and I explained how he came to live in the Paris Opera House.  It was at that point where I knew my inner-theatre geek was showing for sure.  We had a lot of fun and the show was top-notch.  I did some quick math and realized that this was my 23rd viewing of the show.  20th with the original design and 3 with that crappy designed “New” national tour that came out almost 10 years ago.   

After the show, we had dessert at Cafe Concerto and we talked about the show.  Joe told us that out of the 3 musicals he had seen in his life, he liked Phantom better than Hamilton.  But he liked Back to the Future for the action.  I was happy to hear that he felt that way.  Phantom is an odd duck that it is written in an operatic style which is harder to listen to for some people and I was worried that it would effect their experience.  But they all loved the show.  

We said our goodbyes - I took the tube home and crashed.  What a day! 

Travel naps and German Meats

Virgin Atlantic is really the best airline when flying to Europe.  I had a bulkhead seat (no seats in front and plenty of room to move around without disturbing the other people - the best seat on the plane, really), sitting with a lovely English couple.  All three of us sat down together, the guy looked at me and said something, "I may have to use your shoulder if I fall asleep" - quite funny.  

Why a bulkhead seat?  This picture tells all

So, we settled in for our almost 10 hour flight.  All was well until I pulled out my headphones to listen to some music and PANIC AT THE DISCO!

No, not the group... I have wired headphones when I travel to Europe because I'm constantly listening to music and part of this is a second step - always have a dongle that will connect my headphones with the phone as Apple discontinued a headphone jack to make people use their new-fangled Air Pods <eye roll>  When I put my headphones in my bag, I made sure I saw the white dongle   Well..... when I took it out, I realized it was not the right connector.  I panicked, no music for 10 hours??  I sat there for a while trying to think of a solution.  The only solution was to check the ziplock bag of connectors I threw together at the last minute (that's a whole different story) - so I got into the overhead bin -

Can we stop a minute and talk about overhead bin space on this Virgin Atlantic Flight?  SO MUCH BIN SPACE.  No one was asked to check their bags because there wasn't enough space - SO MUCH BIN SPACE.

Anyway - I pulled my backpack down and grabbed the bag and low and behold, there was the correct dongle!  My flight was saved!

Virgin Atlantic always has good food, but I feel like I've had this chicken and rice dish before.  It's not their best work - the other option was a vegetarian pasta which I just wasn't in the mood for.  The salad was good, the cheese and crackers are always welcome and the chocolate mousse thing was good.  After the dishes were cleared, I settled in for a nap or whatever was going to happen.  Quick trip to the loo, a few gumnies to aid in my sleep (Thanks to Rae for hooking me up at the last minute) and I listened to some music and closed my eyes.  Eventually, the lights went down, but unfortunately, the activity around my seat did not.  There was a busy dad that was up out of his seat every few seconds to make sure his family was good - and this older lady which I thought was his mom, but she got off the plane without them - so I guess he adopted her for the flight.  In hindsight, it was beautiful.  Anyway, he was out of his seat with his phone light on to check on things, then he dropped something and was on his hands and knees (with the phone light) looking for it.  I swear, every time I opened my eyes, and I looked left -  there with his back to me talking to his wife (W 34 L 32)   I must say, he always had a smile on his face and was quite friendly.    Unlike the person behind me, which I thought was a child as they were constantly kicking my seat - which I never recline so he had all the room he needed) to find out, it was a grown man who really wanted that flight to be over as he pretty much was pushing his way out and running through the terminal - and it wasn't like he was trying to make a connection because I saw him later with his bags, etc.  There's always one.  I slept on and off for a few hours, feeling rested.  I have a tradition when I fly.  For the last 2 hours of the flight, I listen to Sunset Blvd from beginning to end, and if I time it right, it ends when we land.  Well, I timed it right, but I'm not sure when it ended because I fell alseep and woke up as we landed and the album had ended   

I have my my preparation for landing, and so does Virgin Atlantic.  I loved how the lights slowly came up in the cabin, it took a while - it was like a sunrise.  Some airlines just turn the lights on and BOOM it's bright, this was quite the slow transition.  Very cool.  We were also served breakfast - a croissant  sandwich, yogurt and fruit, and coffee or tea.  I actually asked for a diet coke and while she didn't have any on the cart, she brought me 2 small cans when she was done serving.  That is service.  The breakfast was great.

Upon landing, we disembarked on to the tarmac and took a bus to the terminal.  Customs was easy, getting the luggage was easy, to find the handle on my suitcase is missing a screw.  This will be the last outing for this suitcase.  I felt like a local when I was approached answer questions about the Heathrow Express and other Tube lines with ease.  I am thankful for markings on the side of the platforms.....

The train ride to Paddington Station was easy, and getting to my hotel was easy as well.  My hotel, The Royal Eagle, is in the Paddington Neighborhood.  I like it here because it's close to Paddington Station and the Heathrow Express to the airport.  My room is quite tiny, but will work just fine.  Here is a video of the room

I laid down on the bed and woke up 3 hours later.  I guess getting up on Sunday at 5:30am and then sorta sleeping on the plane, etc, caught up with me.  When I got my bearings, I took a shower and headed out into the neighborhood.   My hotel is on Craven Street, always reminds me of "The Secret Garden"

I headed to the nearest Cafe Nero to start this blog, but not before I stopped and picked up 2 converters for my room.  I'm all set now.  As I was writing this blog, Joe popped in and we chatted and then decided to start walking in the general direction to wear the restaurant was for dinner.

My cousin Valerie and her daughter and her husband Joe just happened to be vacationing in London the same time I am.  No, it wasn't planned, but we just so happened to plan a week or so get away at the same time.  So, that was really cool.  

Joe and I walked a little until we came to The Churchill Bar and Terrace where we stopped for a drink and a cigar.  What a way to begin a vacation.   

We had our drinks and cigars and talked.  Then we headed to meet Val and Autumn at  the German Gymnasium for dinner.  The food was amazing - so many meats!!!! The conversation sparkling, and the tea was spilt.  So much fun.  We all shared everything, so good.

We said our goodbyes and headed to our respective neighborhoods for tomorrow is another exciting day.  First show tomorrow and I'm bringing the gang with me as we visit.... well.... If I tell you, you'll need to keep your hand at the level of your eyes, beware of the Punjab lasso. 

Mattei 

So long, fare thee well Pip! Pip! Cheerio! We'll be back soon

 I finally got logged into blogspot, and they start announcing the boarding process.   

I really hope I have everything.  

I'm off for a week in London.  Shouldn't be surprising to anyone who reads this.  Why London AGAIN?  Well, I think the real reason for this trip is the new production of Starlight Express.  I'm very excited to see this revival.  I guess while I'm there I'll see some other things - definitely a visit to His Majesty's Theatre to check on the Phantom.  

I got a new digital camera to take some pictures and not always using my phone.  Too many temptations when the phone comes out of your pocket.  So we'll see.  If anything can't wait for the blog, it will get posted.  

This morning (Easter) started at 5:15am when the alarm went off and I immediately began my day with a text from Kennan with a link to Sandi Patty's "A Morning Like This" - which was a perfect way to start the day.  I went to work, and 7 1/2 hours later, I was home for the homestretch.  Gotta walk the boys, last minute packing - making sure I have everything - and not really caring if I don't, I guess.

I'm off for a week away.  A week that is supposed to keep my sanity at bay as I'm about ready to lose it if I stay around the bay area any longer.  

I will do my best to take picture and remember anecdotes for the blog.  I haven't blogged on a trip in a while, I'll try to do better.  I even brought a laptop!

Mattei

London in 79+ Hours - October 2023

When I was in London in June (2023) I saw an ad for a major West End revival of Andrew Lloyd Webber's Sunset Blvd. I made a point of checking out dates and maybe I'd be able to swing another trip during Spring Break or something.  Well, it was a limited run, closing on January 6 - so there went that idea.  But it was Sunset, and I had to see it - especially since it was a major West End revival.  In 2016, I went to London to see the concert version with Glenn Close - so I was willing to spend the $$ and try and see this as well.  So, I cleared things that had to be cleared and I made  arrangements to go check out this new Sunset.  

The flight was easy, I listened to music most of the way, maybe read a little bit.  But I must say, the best investment was the bulkhead seat I upgraded to.  It was nice to be able to stretch my legs out durng a flight.  It was so good, that I upgraded for the flight home as well.  I flew United, which was fine.  The service was fine, everything about the flight was fine.   We landed a little early, which was nice as well.  When you land at Heathrow, it's usually a long walk to customs and baggage claim, a good way to get the blood moving.  Then another long-sh walk to the train.  The Heathrow Express goes right to Paddington Station in 15 minutes, and that's the area where I decided to call "home" for the next 4 nights.  It all worked out great.

My hotel was very "boutique"-ish, very small, no elevator, etc - and of course I was on the third floor.  The place was definitely in need of some TLC, but it was clean.  I'm pretty sure the bathroom was once a closet, but it was fine.  You did have to wait for a few minutes for the hot water to arrive, but once I understood that, it was fine.  I read a little bit and relaxed before I decided that I had to get up and start my weekend.  But as I was doing that, the power went off.  So I hoofed it down the stairs to the front desk, and after a bit, they took care of the issue.  So,  I washed up, changed my clothes and was out the door to my first destination - The Phantom of the Opera.

Before the show, I had a steak at Steak and Company, what was good.  Then I walked over to the theatre and was scanned in and I was told to wait for a guy with a red jacket to escort me to my seat.  Now, this was my 18th or 19th time seeing this show, 4th time in London, and I wanted the experience to be different, so I booked a box seat.  Little did I know that it came with V.I.P. service.  Champagne, snacks, a souvenir program, ice cream at intermission, etc... it was the royal treatment.  I got to see the show practically looking down on the stage and right into the orchestra pit - and I had tons of legroom.  I missed some of what happened on stage-right, but it didn't matter.  It was a great experience.  I was told the actress playing Christine that night was the first cover, and she was really great.  One of the best I've heard in quite a while.  The Phantom was the same guy I saw in June, and I was happy about that because I thought he was fantastic. Reminded me very much of the original Phantom, Michael Crawford.  Overall, the experience was once in a lifetime for sure.  

The next day was a 2 show day for me.  Stephen Sondheim's Old Friends and Sunset Blvd.  I got into Theatreland with plenty of time to spare, so I got some lunch and walked around.  Then I hit up a pub and got something to drink and waited for the doors to the theatre were open.  I walked over to the theatre, got my program and found my seat.  The show was a review of the music of Stephen Sondheim and was headlined by Bernadette Peters and Lea Solanga.  It was just one amazing song after another.  Besides the headliners, there was a cast of London's finest theatre performers.  Notably, Bonnie Langford.  Bonnie Langford is a true gypsy of the London stage.  She has done and seen it all - and she's still here - and that's the song she had in Act Two.  Very appropriate for her and her career.  She even high-kicked and did the splits at the end of "Broadway Baby".  I wept when Bernadette sang "Not a Day Goes By" as a photo of Sondheim was projected onto the screen.  I realized as I was watching the show - while I'm a hard-core Andrew Lloyd Webber fan, I rank Stephen Sondheim higher as he really knows the relationship between music, lyrics, and story.  I walked out of the theatre thinking that if I didn't have a weekend of shows to see, seeing Stephen Sondheim's Old Friends was worth my trip and would be happy to have left and felt contented. 

Alas, the show that brought me to London was next.... Sunset Blvd.

I walked to the Savoy Theatre just to be sure I knew where it was, then I looked for someplace for dinner.  I decided on the London location of Joe Allen, which also has locations in NYC and I think Las Vegas.  I ordered a burger of their secret menu and it was quite good.  I walked across the street to the theatre and took some pictures and I went it and waited for the house to open.  I then took my seat when the house opened.  

So - Sunset Blvd.  I've been following this musical ever since Barbra Streisand recorded 2 of the musicals new songs in 1993 before the cast album was released in August of 1993.  I saw the Pre-Broadway LA production with Glenn Close in 1993,  and I pretty much followed the history of the show after that as I could never afford to fly to NYC or London to actually see the show.  But it still remained my favorite show.  In 2016, I made my first "real" trip to London and saw Glenn Close in a concert production with the English National Orchestra.  She repeated that production in NYC a year later and I was there.  Oh, and we can't forget the production I directed and conducted in 2010 at Palo Alto Players.  My love letter to the original production.  

This production was staged by Jamie Lloyd, whose work I was familiar with as he staged a production of Jesus Christ Superstar and Evita  that I saw in London in 2019.  Both were stripped down to nothing and all what was left was the score and the story.  This production of Sunset was the same.  It was a very young cast.  Costumes were very modern, mostly black with some white, the staging was innovative as well as quite fascinating.  "Let's Have Lunch" consisted of 2 lines of actors that moved forward in the order of their sung lines - never looking at each other.  I was fascinated about how well that simple staging worked,  There were onstage cameras held by cast members that would show a projection of an actors face on the screen hehind them... that worked so well with Norma's facial expressions.   It added to the tension of the drama.  My two favorite numbers "The Lady's Paying" and "Eternal Youth is Worth a Little Suffering" were cut.  I kinda knew that going in, but told myself I was going in with an open mind.  In the end I really didn't miss them at all.   

The beginning of Act Two is Joe singing the title song "Sunset Blvd" - and it's usually him around the swimming pool.  Where, there was no pool, of course.  Anyway, it was a video of him starting out in his dressing room, singing the song, dropping in to other people's dressing room, posing with the a cut-out of Andrew Lloyd Webber and then out the side door of the theatre and out on the street, and eventually back into the theatre.  Everyone cheered when he appeared and I don't know why.  Did they actually think that was in real time??  Anyway, the use to technology and video was quite impressive.  The shooting Act Two was done entirely in the dark and when the lights came up, Norma and Joe were covered in blood.  Finally, sone color on the stage.  Intentional?  Absolutely.  All in all, the show was sung very well, there was a full orchestra in the pit, and everyone on stage was fantastic.  The acting was so good, after all, there was no set or costumes to hide behind, it was just them and the music and the story.  It also brought out how crazy and delusional the character of Norma Desmond is.  It was powerful 

My only negative remark was that I had wished they tried harder to keep the story in 1949.  I didn't mind the cameras and such as they really are part of the story, but in the scene where Joe and Betty finish the script, we see a video (probably in real time) of them in a dressing room on a laptop finsihsing the script.  I would have preferred a real typewriter in this case.  

Anyway, I was happy I had made the trip to see this show.  I almost saw it a second time, more on that later.

When I was planning my trip, I kept checking to see if anything new was going to be on when I was in London.  Much to my surprise, a production of the musical Rebecca was having it's English-language debut in London when I was there.  This was exciting, so I picked up a ticket.  

Rebecca began its life as a musical on the same scale as Les Miserables or even The Phantom of the Opera.  Big and grand, with some specticle involved.  I was a little perplexed as why it was put into a very small sort of "Off-West End" theatre. So, I definitely was curious.  The show itself runs along the same lines as Jane Eyre or Wuthering Heights or any other novel of the time period and I think the show does the story justice.  However, what didn't do the show justice was the space in which it played in.  2-thumbs up for them using the original 18 piece orchestration, which was fantastic, but it swallowed up the show.  Even though the orchestra was piped in from other room, the balance between the music and the voices was not great and it was very hard to follow the story.  Luckily, I watched a movie version of the story so I knew what was going on.  Originally written in German, the text was translated by Christopher Hampton who also co-wrote the music for Sunset Blvd.  There were some interesting lyrics and some not very musical phrases.  Granted, he did write them 10 years ago, I think another pass at the lyrics needs to happen.  The show is still running in its original form in Vienna, (in German), I'd love to see it.  I do believe that this staging does not do the show justice.  The set - oh the set - let's just say I've seen better set designs in community theatre.  While I appreciate what they attempted to do, it just didn't serve the story well.  What little effects they could do in that little space where good for the space they were in.  There was no real fire (spoiler... Maderlay burns down at the end) they did a good job representing that scene.  Also, there were too many actors in the audience through-out.  Mostly to mask the scene changes.  I hope this show gets another crack at the size of a production it deserves.  

After the show, I decided to head back the hotel and figure out the rest of my evening.  Turns out, if I had done my homework better, I could have seen once of my favorite vocalists, Kim Criswell, in her cabaret act, but I missed that chance.  Anyway, I decided on a nice evening out at a cigar lounge.  It was a lovely lounge, it was quiet, the food was good and it was a great relaxing time.  

The next day, the final day, I planned to hit up the TKTS booth for a ticket to a show that night.  I didn't have anything in mind, but was just going to see what was up.  When I got to the front of the line, I kept hearing rumblings that the alternate for Norma Desmond was going on this evening in Sunset Blvd.  Being the super-fan that I am, I questioned that when I got to the window, and indeed, the TKTS website said that the alternate was on that night.  So, I bought another ticket for Sunset.  On a hunch, I decided to go to the actual theatre and check to see if indeed the TKTS website was right.  Well, turns out, the were wrong.  So I hoofed it back to the TKTS booth, (in the meantime, they had sent me an email) and they refunded my money and I decided on a ticket for Mrs. Doubtfire - The Musical.   

The rest of the day, I walked around Theatreland and saw some sights, I kept ending up at the Matilda theatre - so basically I was walking in circles.  Ended up at Covent Garden twice, which is always nice.  Stopped in a few pubs for a food and drinks, etc.  I got some fish and chips for dinner and headed to the Shaftesbury Theatre and Mrs. Doubtfire - the musical.

I knew next to nothing about this musical. I do know that it didn't fare well on Broadway because of COVID and such and just couldn't afford to stay open as it opened right after COVID when people weren't going to the the theatre and especially spending money on a musical they knew nothing about.

I loved the movie, so I was hoping the musical would meet my standards.  Well, it EXCEEDED my standards.  It was really well done.  The music and the story worked very well together and the cast was stellar.  It was updated a little to the present time which didn't seem to bother me,  and all of the great lines for the movie seemed to be retained.  It was definitely a fun night at the theatre.  I hope to see it again when it tours in the area.

The next day was the flight home, and besides sitting under a vent and freezing for 11 hours, it was an uneventful flight.

So, were my 79+ hours in London worth 22 hours of air travel, absolutely.  Would I do it again?  Maybe :-).  

#maestroonthemove - The Maestro Moves Again!

 

The plane ride to the Netherlands from Florence was uneventful,   I wasn’t sad to see Florence on my rear-view.  Maybe for some other time, but even that is questionable. When I landed, I got my suitcase and grabbed an Uber to get me to Melinda’s place.  (Melinda Mattei, my favorite first cousin).  Oh, and it was raining.  Why was I not surprised?  There’s a reason why the Netherlands is always green…. RAIN.  Anyway, it was what it was.  It was nice to land in a place with people who spoke English.  It was great to see Melinda and her hubby Rob in their new flat in Amsterdam - situated where everything is at your reach.  It’s a lovely place.

We went out to dinner and we caught up with my travels and talked about family.  We walked around the neighborhood after dinner.  They are so close to some major museums, which I was excited about as I still had some unfinished business at the Rijksmuseum the next day.  I looked at the time, and it was 10:30pm and still light out.  Crazy how that works here.  

The next day, I set out to check out the Rijksmuseum - well part of it.  I’d seen 1/2 of it in 2019 when I went with John, but somehow we missed the most important painting of all - Van Gogh’s painting, The Night Watchman.  So, I decided that I had to see it.  We won’t get that confused with what I thought I was seeing - which was Starry Night - which is NOT at the Rijksmuseum, but rather in MOMA in NYC which I found out later.  This is why I don’t do museums well.   Anyhow, I looked everywhere for this painting and then I finally asked someone - only to find out that it’s been on loan to a gallery in London and has returned but needs to be cleaned and it wouldn’t be on display until July 27.  FAIL    

Here’s a google image of the painting….

 

I then headed out to the more touristy section of the city.  First stop - FRITES!  

 After enjoying my frites, I walked around the area.  Narrow walkways filled with touristy things.  Coffeeshops that don’t sell coffee - you know, that sort of stuff.  I had been there many times before and nothing really phased me anymore.  I was looking for a sweatshirt or sweatpants, but wasn’t very successful in finding any - in my size or otherwise.  I headed back to Melinda’s after a brief stop at the grocery store for snacks.   

Favorite Dutch snack!

Second Favorite - brown bread with seeds and Dutch cheese

That evening, Melinda made her famous “Jamie’s Chicken” and afterward we sat out side with cigars and several types of bourbon.  It was a great night.

The next day was quiet.  Another failed journey to find sweats, but at least I got some walking in.  Not many pictures as I’ve seen it all before.  It’s just nice to be back in Amsterdam.  The afternoon was spent hanging out, reading, adulting - doing adulting things for the first time which was kind of a fail as well - but that’s all I’m saying about that!  

The next day, I said my goodbyes to Melinda and Rob as I was heading out to Beets with John and Krijn (and Domino and Lola as well). For Melinda and I, it was a quick goodbye as I’d see her in a week or so for dinner in Paris.  

Visiting Beets and staying with John and Krijn is always a relaxing time.  Lots of time to hang out, read, chill etc.  We did get out though and we took a drive to see some windmills. 

Hanging out with Domino

John and I did a really fun Facebook Live thing.  If you missed it, you can view it HERE. 

Damn, that Facebook live was a lot of fun.  I went to bed that night on a great high. John and I had done a great concert and the day after tomorrow, I was off to London!   I was so excited.- until I woke up the next morning with a raging headache and a sense of euphoria - and not the good kind……

Yep - you guessed it.  After two tests to make sure, it was official - I was positive with Covid.  Oh joy.  So, I wasn’t going to let this keep me from going to London.  I was ready to buck the virus and head out the next day.  Well…. That didn’t happen.  I finally took my temperature and realized that I had a fever.  So, no London for me.  John and Krijn were nice enough to let me stay for the week.  I basically held up in my room  and napped, watched movies - I even attempted to watch Bridgerton again.  It was 5 days or so of ups and downs, letting things go, feeling homesick, etc… but John is the best cheerleader and he and Krijn got me through the week.  By Thursday, I was starting to feel normal again, and while I didn’t test everyday, I did end up testing on Friday and I was still positive.  Faint-line positive at that, but still positive.  I was ready to move on to Paris the next day.  John and Krijn continued to test negative - even after I John and I had sung at each other for 3 hours at least the day before I tested positive.  Covid is an odd duck.

I donned my mask again and took off for Paris.  2 train rides and I made it in.  So glad to be in Paris.

More to come!!

Maestro 

 

 

#maestroonthemove - The Maestro in Florence - The Gist of Florence Tour

I was told by many not to miss out on going to Florence.   “Oh, Florence is beautiful”, “the museums are stunning”, “they have the best gelato ever”… etc etc.   Well, that’s nice.  What did I think?  

Many years ago, I started a tradition, which turned into a habit, that when I attended a musical, and if I liked it, I bought a hat.   Actually, if there was a hat for sale, I usually bought it..  I continued that tradition - or habit - when I visited a foreign country. I bought a hat in Malta and in Assisi.  However, I did not buy a hat in Florence.  Let’s see if I can explain why.

First of all, I checked out of my AirBnB in Rome, which really was a lovely experience.  Perfect location, nice and roomy, great amenities, etc.  That was my first AirBnB experience and I was grateful that it was a positive one. I took a taxi to the train station and hung out there for a few hours before I had to catch my train to Florence.  I booked a later train as my check in time at my AirBnB was at 3:00pm, and the host was adamant that I was not early.  The train ride was lovely, just 2 stops before Florence.  

When I got to Florence, I got out of the train station and on to the streets of Florence.  The AirBnB host told me that her place was 10 minutes away on foot from the train station.  So, I put the address into Maps and started off.  I can tell you know, I’m pretty tired of using Maps.  I’m always walking the wrong way, or the street signs aren’t clear, etc.  Of course, I started walking in the wrong direction.  I finally turned myself around and headed in the right direction.  Of course, wrong turns were taken, the time to my destination kept going up, etc.  When I finally got to the street, I went to what I thought was the correct address number.   Did you know that on several streets in Florence, there are two sets of numbers?  One in red and one in black.  I didn’t know what the distinction was until before I left Florence - Red is for Business and Black is for residence.  Well, I didn’t know that.  I walked up and down the street trying to figure out where this address was.  I was actually inside the wrong building at one point.  The host kept sending me the same message over and over regarding the address of the building - and that in itself was frustrating. When I finally found the address, the host was like “I don’t understand how it was so difficult for you’ and I was like “Well, I don’t live here!”  And she was like “You look very tired” and I was like, “No, I’m frustrated” and she was like “I don’t know why, it’s so simple to get here!”  And in my mind, I’m like “lady, you are on your way to getting a not-so-good-review from me for communication”  

So, about the AirBnB.  Let’s start with the keys - there were 5 keys needed to finally enter the apartment - or hovel - or whatever you want to call it.  Yes, I guess it was an apartment.  Perfect example of an apartment in a town like Florence.  Yes, it was sorta comfortable, yes it had running water, yes it sorta smelled, but not in a terribly bad way.  Anyway - yes - 5 keys.  She basically showed me things that had to be done, pointed to the flimsy binder on the table and took off - leaving me with a key chain with a re poof on it and 5 keys.  I was like… well… OK here we go.

I turned the AC on and got settled in.  It was just a place to crash, so really, it wasn’t bad.  The door to the apartment opened out of the kitchen and into an ante room.  In the ante room was another door - to another apartment.  For example, as I was trying to leave one day, I couldn’t get the door out of the ante room to the hallway open - I tried all 5 keys etc and I was starting to feel like I was never going to be able to leave this apartment.  All of a sudden, the other door opens and a lady comes out and says “Problema?”and I explained I didn’t know which key - she took the keys out of my hand and showed me.  I thanked her in Italian and she went back into her place waving her arms like any good old Italian lady would do.   

When I returned that evening, with a melting cup of gelato in my hand, I had to maneuver back to the apartment in the dark, as none of the hallways were lit.  It was really dark.  I had my backpack and a cup of gelato - which was melting everywhere - in my hands and trying to open these 5 doors for the first time, most of which was in the dark.  It was really scary, and I’m not easily freaked!   Before I move on from this experience, I noticed this sign on the door

Comune (in Italian) - noun. commune [noun] a group of people living together and sharing everything they own. municipality [noun] a town, city, or other district that has its own government.

So, it looks like the AirBnB was part of a commune.  Many people gave it 5 stars.  To each his own, I would suspect

So, enough about the AirBnB - I’m still trying to figure out what sort of rating I should give this place.  

Florence.  A lovely little town in Italy.  For me, it seemed like an extension of Rome, but smaller and just as crowded - oh, and lots of leather.  I was in the middle the tourist area, which I guess is fine for your first time in a new city, but in this case, you’ve seen one tourist part of a new city, you’ve seen them all - and Florence was no exception.  By the time I left the apartment, it was time for dinner.  The one thing I learned from Rick Steves video on Florence was that they are know for their beef.  So, I thought that would be a good place to start.  I picked a place randomly in one of the piazzas for dinner and had a T-bone steak.  

Although I thought I order it medium rare - it was too done for my taste.  Still it was good.   After dinner I wondered around some more and then headed back to the apartment.  

After the issue with not being able to get into the Forum without a ticket in advance, before I left Rome I tried to get a ticket for the Academia Galleria if I was going to see David.  Of course, there were no tickets available, so I went to Expedia and booked a 2 hour walking tour of Florence that ended up with a “skip-the-line” ticket for the Academia Galleria.  That was a pretty good score.  

Anyhow, I slept a little longer on the first morning and then ventured out into the city.  I walked through some of the markets, down some of the less crowed streets of Florence as well as scoped out where I would have to meet my tour at 2:15pm.   

One of the bridges in Florence - the Ponte Vecchio

I passed by this sandwich shop where the line was all the way down the street.  Evidently, it’s the most famous sandwich shop in Florence.  

The tour began at 2:30pm.  We walked from the river to the Academia Galleria and saw some of the sights and listen to our very knowledgeable tour guide, Stefano.  

Bridge to connect the uffici (offices) to the Palazzo Vecchio

Palazzo Vecchio 

Baptistry at the Duomo

Bell Tower at the Duomo

Palazzo Medici Riccardi

And we finally got to the Galleria Della Accadmia.  Which is/was part of a school.  For some reason, I expected someplace that had one of the most famous statues in the world to be a little more grand to look at from the outside.  

St. Matthew

The Pieta

That was the end of the tour.  We were able to wander around the gallery as much as we liked.  So, I wandered around for a bit and then took off.  The gallery was very close to my apartment, I didn’t even realize that as I was looking for something more exciting to tell me that “there was an important piece of art there”.  

On my constant search to find a tobacco shop that wasn’t a shop for cigarettes and vaping supplies, I finally found one - on the street where my apartment was.  SCORE - finally.   The guy behind the counter was an older guy, spoke pretty decent English, and he was fun to talk to.  I ended up picking up a few cigars and some pipe tobacco for John and a new pipe.  I wanted to get a new pipe that was made in Italy.  So, I was shown a few and I chose this one

It’s a Savinelli and I think it’s made out of balsa wood, that is native to Italy.  I also asked what the rules about smoking were in Florence and I was told I could smoke anywhere that is not inside.  So, that was cool.  I actually didn’t get my nerve up to do that until the next day.  

I wandered around a little more and decided that tonight would be pizza night.  So, I stopped at a restaurant on the piazza and had a pizza.  Nothing exciting, just a pizza.  Afterward, I walked around some more, trying to avoid the peddlers trying to talk to you and sell you stuff.  I really did try to avoid the squares for this reason.  They were all over the place.  It seemed mostly they were from Africa.  One asked me if I needed a Rolex - I basically said back “Why would I want a Rolex?”  And walked away.  

I went back to the apartment and did some writing and then I went to bed.

The goal of the next day (Sunday) was to attend Mass at the Duomo.  So.I had made sure I looked up the Mass times and set my alarm accordingly.  Thinking there was a 9:30am Mass, I started out a little early to make sure I got there on time.  Well, there wasn’t a 9:30am Mass, but a 9:00am Mass.  I looked up the Mass times again and found that - as usual - I was looking at the wrong schedule. - I seem to do that a lot. However, there was a Mass at 10:30am that was done in Gregorian Chant - with organ - so I stayed for that.  I loved the organ in the Duomo as the different ranks of pipes were in different parts of the church.  Almost like in surround sound.  While I appreciate good organ music, the compositions of the 20th century (or newer) never really do it for me.  This organist seemed all about that, using big pedal sounds and very reedy-sounding registrations.  The neat thing is that there is a 10 second reverberation. 

I didn’t take any pictures during Mass because I didn’t think it was appropriate.  My plan was to go back later in the day and go in and explore a little more and take pictures.   After Mass, I got some lunch and then headed back.  Well, once again, Mattei didn’t read the fine print… the cathedral was closed on Sunday for walkthroughs, etc… Failed again.   

At that point, I was done with Florence, so I went back to the apartment, did some writing, booked my train to London and tickets to a show, I read a little and then I decided to go out for dinner and finally smoke that damn cigar while sitting in a cafe!

I thought for my last night in Florence, I would go for beef again and I found a lovely little restaurant called Casa Del Vin Santo and ordered a ribeye. It really was one of the best ribeyes I’ve ever had

I ordered it rare, and it came out perfectly.  I tagged the restaurant in my Facebook post saying it was the best ribeye I’d ever had - and suddenly a shot of limoncello (on the house) ended up on my table saying “Thank you for being here”.  So, that was nice.  I found a nice cafe, ordered and Aperol spritz and I smoked my cigar.  Sorta made me feel like a European, smoking outside in a cafe. 

I headed back to the apartment, finished some things and went to bed - but didn’t sleep well - don’t know why.  The next day I’d be on a plane to the Netherlands for a week or so of chilling out with family and friends.  

So, Florence.  Maybe I was jaded after having such an amazing time in Assisi and wanted Florence to be the same amazing time.  Maybe I was just tired of basically being a tourist for almost two weeks?   The tourist parts of Florence are so much like Rome that I was really done with Florence before I even got there. I’m glad I’ve been and I can check it off the list!

Maestro