#maestroonthemove - The Maestro in Rome - a 3 Part Mini-Opera

When I finally got to Rome - that’s another story for another time - I stepped into a wonderful apartment that was to be my home for 4 nights.  It was my first AirBnB experience.  It was a lovely apartment, 3 blocks away from St Peter’s etc.  The host was great and I felt right at home right away.  In fact, I took his recommendation and tried a restaurant in the area for dinner, which turned out to be good as well.  

I was last in Rome in August, 2014 - and it was a fantastic experience.  When I left, I planned right away to return. Well, as I learned over the last few days, August really is the “off season” where June definitely is not.  Especially the summer after 2 years of almost no “real” travel.  I found that out very quickly.

Part 1 - Three Coins in the Fountain - FINALLY

When I visited Rome in 2014, I was glued to my Rick Steves book.  In his book, there was a walking tour that lead from the Spanish Steps to the Piazza Navona.  I wanted to do this tour again because there were a few things that I wanted another crack at.  

But before this, I started my day off with a coffee and a croissant (chocolate) and walked to St Peter’s and took a few pics.  

Had to have a picture of a working fountain for Angela.  Anyway, I had planned to spend the bulk of my day tomorrow at the Vatican, so I moved on.  I wanted to do some recon…. But first, some pics of the Castel Sant’Angelo.  An round building that is a few blocks away from the Vatican that figures into the “Angles and Demons” story - which I am totally obsessed with.  Truth or not, I’m obsessed.

  

Now for recon…. When I was in Rome in 2014, I stayed very near the Vatican Museum.  Now the Vatican Museum is basically on the other side of Vatican City from St Peter’s Square.  If you didn’t know, there is a wall that surrounds Vatican City from the rest of Rome.  It’s kinda cool and sometimes very mysterious. Anyhow, when I was there last time, the first thing I did was the Vatican Museum.  When I was done, I wanted to go to St Peter’s.  Well, there isn’t an easy way to get from one place to another - well, that’s what I thought. In 2014 - my GPS had me walking over hill and vale to get to  St Peter’s. If I had just walked the other way - it was around the block.  Literally - 10 minutes - not the 30+ it took me the last time.  So, my recon was to figure out was it possible to get to the Vatican Museum from St Peter’s going the other way - and indeed there was and I walked it several times this trip.

In 2014, my main method of transportation was the Metro - and since I wanted to get to the Spanish Steps, this was the easiest way to get there because I know how to get there. The nearest Metro station was in my “old neighborhood” - I noticed that gelato store right away!  I mean, you never forget your first time.  

There was a church in the square near said gelato stand that I neglected to photograph because it was always locked, but it was opened this time, so I took some pictures.

Wooden pipes!

I got to the familiar Metro station - donned my mask - as masks are still required on public transit.  Most people complied - and I got off at the Spanish Steps.  Here is where I needed to make up for some lost time.  I didn’t climb the steps last time -  this time, I made the climb

The bottom of the steps

And the top of the steps

There’s a church at the top of the steps as well

So, the next thing on the tour was the Trevi Fountain.  Well, if was obvious my sense of direction was not going to be in my favor, and since I neglected to bring my Rick Steve’s book along, I had to rely on my GPS - hoping that this day wasn’t going to eat up my data.   The last time I was here, the Trevi Fountain was being worked on, so it was under a tarp etc… so I had to see it in working order.  It’s a sight to behold

The Trevi Fountain is kinda cool, but I really feel sorry for it -as much as one can feel sorry for a fountain.  The fountain is surrounded by these big buildings that have sprung up over the years.  This glorious thing is now dwarfed by Rome.  Not to mention how impossible it is to move around in that area during tourist season - which I was slowly finding out that I was smack dab in the middle of.  Yeah, I wasn’t amused.

If I remembered correctly, the next major “attraction” on the tour was the Pantheon - Rome’s oldest church.   It’s a beautiful Ancient Roman structure that was complete between 126-128 AD.  It has been in continuous use since then.

Organ, probably a good electric since there were no pipe to be seen

There was this grand piano outside of the Pantheon - I think there was to be a concert there at some point.

There were a LOT of people in the Pantheon, as well as a long line to get in.  It was very difficult to concentrate on any of the descriptions of the art, etc.  I was in and out faster than I would have liked, but there really is only so much you can take. 

It was on to the Piazza Navona.  Once again, another “Angels and Demons” location that excited me.   Here it is - The Fontana Dei Quattro Fiumi

Wiki says: Erected in the centre of Piazza Navona, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) was designed by Bernini in 1651. The four statues represent the most important rivers of the continents where Christianity had spread; the Nile, Danube, the Ganges and Rio de la Plata. 

The church in the piazza is Sant'Agnese in Agone (St Agnes) I was able to go inside and take a few pictures. 

I had completed the “Rick Steves” tour, and was really hungry.  I had to pick up my ticket for the Papal audience the next day, and the place was near the Trevi Fountain, so I attempted to head back to that area.  I finally found a cafe that wasn’t crowded and ordered lunch - a cheeseburger and fries - as I wasn’t feeling very adventurous.  The crowds were starting to annoy me,  I took my time.  When I was done, I still had something like an hour and half before I had to be somewhere, so I walked around.  First, I walked to where the office was to pick up my ticket, just so I knew where I was going.   Then I walked around, and around, I turn my foot on the curb, which I’ve done several times since, and finally, I stopped for gelato.  I know what’s trying to wait for Florence for gelato, but somehow, I had to pass the time and I was tired of walking.  It was finally time to pick up my ticket.  I like how they make a big deal about having an ID. - whether it be a passport or drivers license - and a copy of the email from the office in order to pick up your ticket.  I had all of those and all they did was look up my name.  There was a quick orientation on what to expect tomorrow.  The orientation was given by an American priest.  He has a lot of enthusiasm, but I will say that many thing he said were not accurate!   Anyway, it didn’t matter, we had our tickets and were ready.

So happy that I was done in that area of Rome, I somehow got back to the Spanish Steps and on to the Metro.  I got off at a different station and the walk to my apartment was a good 20 minutes, which took me the same as if I was rounding the corner from the Vatican museum to St. Peter’s!   Anyway, I was glad to be back.  

Part 2 - Wednesdays with the Pope

One of things I wanted to do when I was in Rome was attend a Papal audience. So I asked my Pastor, Fr. Michael what I had to do to get a ticket.  He told me who to write to at the archdiocese and I did and I ended up sending an email inquiring about getting a ticket.  A few weeks later, I got an email saying that I had a reservation - not a guarantee - as one does not know whether or not the Pope will be available on the date you requested.  Turns out, that a few days before, I got an email saying that there would be an audience for the day that I requested and the email gave the instructions on how to get my ticket and so on.  So I got up early, and per instructions, it was suggest we get in line at 7:00am (the event was at 9:00am) I walked to St Peter’s and there was a line forming on the OTHER side of St Peter’s Square - not the side the little priest told us it would be.  After I confirmed that it was indeed the line, I stood there.  Not sure how long etc….  Here’s a picture of the line - evidently there were 2 lines - one on the right of the square and one on the let

These nuns were cute so I took a picture 

The audience took place in St Peter’s Square.  There were many chairs set up, and not all of them were filled, there were even some non-ticket holders standing behind where the chairs were.  Anyway, the line finally moved and we had to go through metal detectors before entering the square.  Funny, they didn’t even take the tickets.  Anyway, I found a decent seat and read a book on my phone until it started.   Now, the little priest said that there would not be a procession in the Pope mobile, that they would just lead him out and he’d sit down.  Well, wrong again, little priest.  The Pope took a good 25 minutes in the Pope mobile and went through the crowd - stopping to kiss a few babies.  Here’s a video that I was able to get.  People were crowding, standing on chairs, etc - I just did my best. 

During all this, we were all welcomed in our own language.  There were about 7 or more interpreters on hand to guide us through this event.  They were calling out groups from the USA - and Our Lady of Angels was not mentioned!  How dare they….   Anyway, the Pope mobile ascended the steps outside St Peter’s, yes - drove up the steps

There was a reading, which was read in all the languages represented. John 21 “Peter do you love me, feed my sheep” etc.. One of my favorites.  Then the Pope gave a little homily about the reading - in Italian of course.  Afterward, each of the interpreters gave a little summary of what the Pope said, basically saying we need to take care of our children and our elderly - like Jesus asked Peter to do.  The interpretations took a while.  Then there was a blessing, which we were told to bring anything we wanted to be blessed by the Pope and during that blessing, those things would have the Papal blessing (even if they never left our backpacks). Then we sang the Our Father in Italian, which of course, I don’t know, with a melody that I didn’t know, so I mumble along in English.  Then it was over.   I was glad I did that.  I had seen Pope John Paul II in Denver in 1993 during World Youth Day - with thousands of people.  This seemed very intimate compared to that.  

I then headed around the block, the easy way, to the Vatican Museum.  I didn’t think ahead to get my ticket online, so I had to stand in a long line to get in.  I read my book and eventually I made it in and I was allowed to buy a ticket - with about a million other people.  Anyhow, I soldiered on and entered the museum.  Now, I made a huge mistake before I got in line and waited all this time to get in to the museum - I didn’t eat.  In fact, I hadn’t eaten all day - and that wasn’t a good idea.  No food and no caffeine, a museum with wall to wall people, I was not in the mood to look at pictures of the same biblical scenes as painted by 100 different people that I really didn’t know or care about.   Which, I’m sorry, is all the Vatican Museum is.  Let’s face it, the museum is only at catalyst to get you to the Sistine Chapel- don’t believe it if anyone tells you that there’s a short cut!   Before I began that journey, I got some lunch in the Food Court and just sat there for a while before I continued.   At this point, the muscles in my right foot were not happy from the little “turn” they took yesterday, so I was sorta limping around the museum.  Anyhow, I got on my feet and followed the signs to “Capella Sistina” - which took us up and around, ignoring most of the relics and artifacts on the way.  Many people and tours stopped in the middle of the aisle to do their thing and take pictures, so it was like a video game to try and navigate.  Not to mention, it was WARM, like sweaty warm.  We won’t even talk about what a covid risk that was!!!   Anyway, we finally got to the chapel and it was PACKED with people, there were priests trying to hear confessions, it was just a madhouse.  A madhouse in a very sacred place.  Guards telling everyone to be quiet and not take pictures…. Yeah right.  I took some because at that point I really didn’t care.  I really don’t know why I thought it would be quiet enough to think and maybe pray, because maybe it wasn’t this crazy last time.  

I took a pictures of these as well

And the obligatory picture of the exit stairs - everyone takes this picture

I was a little disappointed that the Vatican Museum didn’t quite have their gift shop together.  Not sure why but there was just a corner of the room with stuff.  I skipped it.  Not many pictures over all of the Vatican Museum.  Kind of a bust with the heat and the crowds.  But I was glad to go.   

I walked back around the block - the short way - and got in line to go into St Peter’s Basilica.  I felt that I should because I was there.  The area near the sanctuary was roped off, more than usual, so I was bummed about that.  I did duck into an adoration chapel for a while, which was a little cooler and quiet.  Here is the one picture I took

After that, I was done for the day.  I walked back to the apartment and rested for a bit and then went out for some dinner, came back and watched TV.  Watching TV in Italy is a crap shoot… everything is in Italian - imagine that.  If you’re lucky, you’ll find some things in English.  I was lucky enough to catch a few episodes of “Schitts Creek” as well as and episode of “CHiPs” - yes “CHiPs” - crazy - and a few episodes of “Little House on the Prairie” - not to mention the re-make of “Miracle on 34th Street” - in the middle of June.  I watched it anyway, I love that story - even the re-make.  

Part 3 - I’m Calm, I’m Calm, I’m Perfectly Calm…..

Today was my last day in Rome.  I had a few things I wanted to do, the first was to visit St John Lateran Church, the Forum and to find a pipe shop.  I hoped an Uber and took off. 

Well, one out of three ain’t bad.  I did visit St. John Lateran, the Pope’s Church - he is the Bishop of Rome so he has his own church.  I took some pictures and attending Daily Mass.  (which was in Italian and I mumbled along in English) 

I was glad to have some quiet time and also the opportunity to go to Mass.  Just what I wanted at the end of a fast paced few days in Rome.  So I thought…

Across the street was the Sancta Sanctorum.  According to the Wiki -

“ The Sancta Sanctorum (Italian: Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Palatio ad Sancta Sanctorum) is a Roman Catholic chapel entered via the Scala Sancta (Holy Staircase) of the Lateran Palace in Rome. It was the original private chapel of the papacy before it moved to Avignon, and later to the Vatican Palace. The chapel is the only building from the old Lateran Palace that was not destroyed during its reconstruction”

Here is the link to the Wiki page

I wasn’t about to climb the stairs on my knees, but some did….

I took the other staircase and spent some time in the chapel at the top

Here is the outside of the building as well

My next stop was the Forum.  I wanted to go to the Forum as I missed it last time I was in Rome.  I guess I didn’t realize that it was right near the Colosseum - which was right next door. - and I did visit the last time I was in Rome.  Well, turns out, I needed to buy and ticket online to enter.  So, I looked it up online and the soonest I could buy a ticket to get in would be 5:30pm.  Well, no Forum for me this time after all.

Next was trying to find a pipe shop. I had a few names that my friend John had looked up for me and I chose the closest one and put the address in Maps and took off.  I really bad at following GPS on foot, especially since roads are not well marked in Rome and the end of one road might be the start of another.  So, I did my best to try and find this shop and to follow the GPS the best I could.  All of a sudden, I turn a corner and what do I see?  The Trevi Fountain - and the crowds of tourists.  Wonderful - the place I wanted to avoid was BACK.   So, I ended up following GPS and it took me by the Pantheon, which didn’t seem as crowded as last time, and then I hit the wall.  I needed lunch - or just food because I don’t think I had eaten yet- bad habits when on vacation.  So, I stopped at a cafe and had a bacon cheeseburger and finished it off with a cappuccino.  I was then on my way - and I was getting close.  As I was walking, I had this feeling of DejaVu that I had been on this street before.  Not this time, but last time.  I don’t know why, I just did.  I ended up crossing the river into the Trastevere neighborhood, which is kinda artsy.  Really neat area.  

Well, the place I was looking for ended up being a place that sold cigarettes, a few pot pipes, and vaping stuff, as did the other one I looked into that was close by.   I was done.  I grabbed an Uber and headed back to the apartment.

So, that was my time in Rome.  Definitely spent most of my time Rome-ing around the city, which I do like doing.  However, dodging rude tourists, having to yield to a car in the middle of the road that really is the size of an alley - after all, cars can go anywhere people can - including sidewalks.  I had enough of touristy Rome and was looking forward to moving on to Florence the next day.  All in all, it was a decent experience, I know now if I wish to return, it will be in the off-season.  But I believe lightning can only strike once and my first time in Rome was magical, which this time was a little jaded.  

Maestro